Havana, Cuba
As far as last minute decisions go, this was a good one. An unexpected invitation led me to pack my bags, say cheerio to the overhelming metropolis of Mexico City and board a flight to Havana for a long weekend.
Cuba is one of the few places in the world that manages to keep its "cool" factor despite not offering many of the services available in other countries (Civil liberty being one of the big ones!). I mean , there are very few communist regimes remaining in this world and I think you will agree with me that going to North Korea doesn't have the same "va va voom"factor as sipping mojitos in Old Havana !
The streets and people conjure up a picture of "the good ol'days" or perhaps the more innocent times when Ernest Hemingway downed a few beverages at La Bodeguita del Medio, and had diner at La Floridita. The city feels romantic, stuck in a time-less bubble.
Do these iconic places keep their soul even though they have become tourist attactions? I guess they do on Day 1 - 2 but by Day 3 and 4 you will probably be glad that you are able to leave the island, unlike others.
It's is hard not to fall into the "land of cliches"when talking about Cuba, describing the old colourful "Yank Tanks"from the 1950s roaming the streets, Son playing on every street corner, the beautifully neglected colonial architecture, Partagas Cigars, Havana Club Ron, Che and Fidel, the Revolution ... and perhaps most importantly...the people who seem to live happily albeit isolated from the fast moving world we are faced with everyday.
That last comment might be a little naive. It is perhaps more accurate to say that people have a "happy"approach to life and a resilience at getting on with it despite not having much at all! All in all I think Cuba is like an onion - with many layers that as a tourist we probably only uncover the first one (if that).
Some funny anecdotes I learned and experienced during this short stay:
- Cubans LOVE baseball. They play it everywhere and most of the time with a random wooden stick and a plastic bottle cap.
- Cubans receive free Tai Chi lessons - at the feet of the Capitolio Friday Nights.
- Did you know that cars are allocated a different coloured license plate depending on whether they are owned by a foreign company, owned by a local company (ie. the government) or diplomats. Cars with blue license plates (owned by the government) are "obliged" to stop if someone waves them down - and they do!
- Cubans love ice cream and they have their own brand - it's called Coppelia. We tried to get into the main parlour on Sunday but we were refused entrance as it was reserved for Cubans (who pay a fraction of what foreigners would pay). That put us nicely in our place.
- Choice is usually limited on the island. It was depressing to see a pharmacy with only a few boxes of medecine on its shelves, or shops with next to nothing.
- In terms of food, if you want to veer away from the traditional Chicken/Beans/Rice (I think I OD-ed on that in Central America), they have great seafood and massive lobster! And what a better place to sample all this food but in someone's house ?
- I visited the Partagas Factory where their roll the famous Cohibas, Romeo&Juliet cigars ...by hand ...yes still!
- Propaganda is everywhere on the island. Big billboards with messages from Fidel or pictures of Che line up the streets from the airport into town.
- The US embassy has also become somewhat of a tourist attraction especially at night when you can see the huge LED screen which has rolling pro-democracy messages directed to the people of Cuba !
- Only foreigners drink Mojitos! Locals prefer Ron Anejo 7 years with ice and a little sparkling water!
- It was an extremely odd (and somewhat liberating) feeling not to be oppressed by publicity... You will not find any signs of Coca Cola, McDonalds ... the only thing I recognised was Nestle Ice Cream.
Labels: Cuba, Havana, March 2008
